The loo eventually begins … The new bolts will secure the flange against the bottom of the toilet. The previous wc was plugged and screwed down in the normal way.Any thoughts please. It has a hub with a rubber sleeve that should be facing up. The instructions say to use a masonary bit to drill holes and then install anchors. Usually, the cause of a wobbly toilet is that it is not sitting flush against the floor. Think of this flange as a strong metal or plastic ring. It just spins and gets very hot. The cistern and the internal parts were all inplace when delivered and fixing it to the pan was a straightforward job. The house has piped underfloor heating. If the toilet flange, the round item that sits under the toilet and connects the toilet to the drain pipe, is higher than the floor, the toilet … If the rim is higher than the floor level, the flushing toilet won’t be a pleasant experience. Anyways, finally got round to having a go at the toilet today. I am just a bit concerned about screwing the pan to the floor and whether the pipes will be far enough down not to worry. Screw the new flange to the floor using a screwdriver and the new screws that came in the product package. Place the toilet flange face down on the concrete. This is so the wax ring seals properly to the flange and the hub on the toilet. If nothing is broken try to determine if the floor is just sloped or something that can be fixed with a shim or something to level out the floor. One you've secured the toilet to the flange by tightening the two toilet bolts, protect the wood floor with caulk. Closet (toilet) flanges must be 1/4" above a finished floor. The closet flange connects the waste pipe to the underside of your toilet bowl. The flange locks the toilet to the drainpipe, and it should flush at the same level as the floor. It’s this piece that is bolted to the floor, and also sometimes secured to the drain pipe called a “bend”, which is made of sturdy iron. Then, place the flange over the stub-out and turn it until the slots for the bolts that secure the toilet are by the flange's side in relation to the wall that is behind the toilet. Apply masking tape to the floor. If the toilet isn't moving that much, you can slide a metal or plastic shim underneath from the outside. The problem is that the bit (brand new) will not make a hole. Make sure that there are no spaces between the flange and the floor before screwing it into place. Caulk keeps your toilet secure the floor, and avoids any chance of injury or toilet malfunctioning. If your toilet is loose but is not leaking, you can read on to learn how to shim a toilet. It’s actually required by the International Plumbing Code to caulk a toilet to the floor, and now knowing the reasoning behind it, why would you not want to? 3. Instead, they secure to a toilet flange. While this is true, you should know that the bolts don’t go directly to the floor. If a proper seal is not achieved it will result in leaking. Not only will this help you get a straighter, smoother seal, but it will prevent any caulk from getting on your floors. To keep your toilet anchored securely, always use a closet flange secured tightly to the floor. I have to fix a new toilet to my daughter's downstairs toilet.She has just had the floor retiled. After a very challanging experience getting most of the pumbing ready to install my new Saniplus upflush toilet, I am stumped on how to attach it to the basement floor. To avoid this, shim up the toilet using either plastic toilet shims – available at any hardware store – or a toilet base slab with the same shape as the base of the toilet. A badly rocking toilet can lead to a leaky wax seal. The focus at that moment is looking for how to secure the toilet to floor. Don’t use the caulk to secure the toilet to the floor if it’s loose or uneven. 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